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Telluride, Colorado - July 23, 1999
John and Allison Helleberg, the owners of 221 South Oak since February,
believe a restaurant should be a place for everyone.
Soon after they assumed the ownership of the popular Telluride restaurant,
which opened in late 1992 under the skilled direction of former owners
Joan Sullivan and Hope Anderson, the Hellebergs decided to expand the
menu to include not only additional items, but also some more affordable
choices and larger portions.
A graduate of Washington and Lee University, John began his cooking
career in native Virginia. In addition to training at several French-American
restaurants, he worked under nationally - acclaimed chef Jimmy Snead.
Helleberg cooked with 221 head chef Bob Scherner until last fall, and
then took over as chef in January. " I was really impressed with
Bob," he says. "He has the drive and intensity that I respected
and wanted to learn from. The fact that there is a restaurant like 221
in Telluride is a big part of why I moved here."
Allison Helleberg moved to Telluride in 1994 after completing a masters
of business administration at the University of Miami. For her first
two years here,she managed the photography business for T. R. Youngstrom.
She began working at 221 in 1996 doing everything from bussing and waiting
tables to tending bar.
221's new menu reflects John's desire to "simplify the food."
He adds, "We really want the menu to appeal more to locals, and
to achieve that, we now offer more options. There's a different style
to the food now. I was taught to focus on simplicity and that you only
need a few flavors on the plate. Essentially, I cook what I like and
believe in."
John's own favorites on the menu include seared scallops with baby shitakes
and a balsamic reduction; Key West shrimp risotto with chantrelles,
sweet corn and sausage; seared rare tuna served with mashed potatoes,
fried leeks, and red wine sauce; seared rare kobe onglet served with
mushrooms, garlic mashed potatoes, and whole grain mustard; and Chilean
sea bass served with zucchini flower, cauliflower mousse, and truffle
sauce. Other interesting and creative items include the vegetarian risotto
with asparagus, English peas, and mushrooms, and the sweet Vidalia onion
soup with smoked bacon and chives. 221 has always been famous for its
desserts, and the Hellebergs continue that appeal with offerings that
include cherry almond cheesecake, apple tart tatin, vanilla creme brulee,
sorbet, and chocolate souffle served with caramel ice cream and chocolate
sauce.
"The menu features the kind of foods I would order if I went to
a restaurant," John says. "It's been the most enjoyable part
of purchasing this business, this ability to offer what I myself like
to the people who come here."
While the Hellebergs are excited about the opportunity to improve on
what has become a Telluride tradition, they understand, too, the importance
of holding on to the restaurant's history and maintaining the comfortable
atmosphere for which it is well-known. Say Allison, " We're not
trying to change everything. We want to incorporate the old with the
new and focus on making positive changes for our customers." "It's
a lot of fun, and challenging, too" John adds. "And, of course,
it's extremely rewarding. It's nice to be able to make your mark, to
do something your own way."
The Hellebergs have also expanded the 221 wine list to include what
Allison calls a "nice range of less expensive wines." The
restaurant also hosts martini nights on Wednesdays during the summer,
and the Hellebergs plan to host occasional wine dinners throughout the
season.
Telluride Weekly Planet
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